Eating animal hearts are not something we Westerners do much of nowadays.
Yet, there was a time when organ meats — called variety meats or offal, collectively — provided basic nutrients and protein for the poor and working classes. The offal tradition has been revived in Britain over the past few years, thanks to traditional cookery shows on television; our butcher has been surprised by his customers’ increasing requests for hearts, liver and kidneys.
You can prepare heart in one of two ways. You can boil it to death or you can stir-fry it. Those who favour low and slow cooking need to be adept at getting heart just right, because it can turn out tough and muscular. Another downside is that this type of cooking uses a lot of gas or electric, highly expensive these days.
On the other hand, stir-frying heart presents a quick, healthful, tender —…
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